Chassis & Body Dipping

[widetrack]

Does anyone know of a place that provides a chassis or whole body dipping service to remove rust and paint in the Greater Seattle area or do I have to send out of state for this? Also, is this a good idea to do this type of dipping? I have heard some bad stories about the dipping solution not being neutralized properly and later causing a major problem. I don't mind using a wire brush and lots of labor, but I'm afraid that I can't get the rust out of all the hiding places. My car is currently stripped to the bare chassis and I am anxious to turn the corner and start putting is back together, but I don't want to rush the job.

[MikeS]

The EPA in the state of Washington no longer allows acid dipping. There is a place in Oregon that does full body dipping. They always advertise at the Seattle Roadster show. I'm sure you can find them in the yellow pages online in Oregon. The biggest draw back to acid dipping is that it becomes very difficult to get paint in all those nooks and crannies where you can't fit a spray gun. This can lead to rust down the road, even if the car is stored indoors. Media blasting is an alternative and there are many booths around Puget Sound that specialize in this. Media blasting or "sand blasting" as the old schoolers call it involves using glass beeds, garnet, ground up walnut shells, plastic beads, or what ever media is hot at the time and running it through a special nozzle under air pressure to remove paind and rust. This is very effective at getting the metal clean and getting into tight spots where the wire wheel drill can't. This is also preferred by many, because the stripping process only goes where you point the gun....better control. Big down side is warping wide pannells if too much air pressure is used and the build up of arrant sand in those nooks and crannies. A good air hose can help there. I've used all three forms of metal stripping in the past. Pros and cons to all three.

[Flyingtiger]

Be carefull using acid dipping. Acid residue can remain in the metal and "nooks and crannies". Later, in our moist climate, the acid can leach out and corrode the metal resulting in rust. The best method of stripping is with urethane plastic spheres, as is used in aircraft paint stripping. Walnut media leaves small particles of walnut shell in those places where you can't tell until, over time with ambient moisture, the acids in the walnut shell particles will cause rust. Garnet is a good choice, but a little pricy. Sand is a definate no-no because of the heat it generates, unless the "gun guy" really knows what he's doing. In your area, I don't know of an automotive stripper. However, Arlington airport used to have an excellent aircraft painting and stripping service. Maybe they could help. Call me if you can't find anyone in your area, as I have access to a professional shop that I do business with in our area. RGM 360-893-4252

[ViolentBird]

I think this out fit does what your looking for. It is worth your time to phone.They are located in B.C. fairly close to SD Performance, here`s the particulars.

Redi - Strip Metal Cleaning
Phone # 604 - 946 - 7761
Address 7691 Vantage Way
Delta B.C.

[widetrack]

Thanks everyone for the information. I have decided not to have the chassis dipped and right now am planning to do it the old fashioned way, wire brush. I am a little worried about getting inside the boxed areas. I would at least like to coat these closed in areas with a rust inhibiting paint like POR or Rust Bullet since I know that I won't be able to remove all of the surface rust. I'm planning to use a very small video camera to inspect these regions for rust and paint coverage.

[GTO_AL]

Another method that I used on the Plum Mist convert was to take most of the paint off with Aircraft Paint stripper. Most auto paint stores sell this. The draw back is that you will need good open spaces that's well ventilated. It takes 95% of the paint off and again, you can choose where to apply it. I didn't apply it over seams or crevises so that it didn't get in there and then stay in there. Where some heavy rubber gloves too. It took the paint off in no time then I followed up with the ole sander. I had the car completely stripped in about a week. And I work 24hr shifts every other day so 1/2 of that time I wasn't able to work on it. I plan doing the same with the HO convert when I'm start that.

[THOR]

Gee, can't you media blast or sand blast the frame if the body is off of it ??